Redefining Authenticity and Settlement: First-Generation Chinese Immigrant Restaurateurs in the American Midwest

• In Event: Asia and Asian American Section Roundtables Session
  In Refereed Roundtable (90 minute): Table 3: Asia and Asian America Section Roundtable - Assimilation and Transnationalism

Abstract

Historically concentrated in major gateway cities, Chinese immigrants are increasingly settling in non-traditional "new destinations" across the American hinterland. Situated in a Midwestern college town, this qualitative study explores the lived experiences of first-generation Chinese restaurant owners, examining their motivations for small-town settlement and their subjective constructions of culinary authenticity. Drawing on in-depth interviews with three ethnic entrepreneurs and 30 hours of participant observation in one of the restaurants, this paper investigates the intersection of immigrant economies, social integration, and food culture. Rather than spilling over from traditional metropolitan hubs, they migrate directly to small towns, relying heavily on strong personal and familial ties to establish themselves. In these rural areas, a favorable bureaucratic climate and reciprocal relationships with local customers—spanning functional, emotional, and cultural dimensions—facilitate their acculturation and foster a sense of community belonging. Furthermore, the study challenges static, Western-centric definitions of culinary authenticity. Leveraging a pan-Asian identity, Chinese restaurateurs actively redefine authenticity to pursue profitability by incorporating Japanese or other Asian cuisines into their menus. They exhibit a dual definition of authenticity: for most items on the menu, they primarily define authenticity through the material "freshness" of ingredients, accepting a limited, Americanized version of culinary authenticity. However, authenticity is also verified relationally; owners cultivate ties with local Asian diasporas by offering "hidden menus" and specialized dishes, thus maintaining intra-ethnic solidarity and cultural legitimacy. In this latter scenario, these Chinese owners maintain a space of intimacy and nostalgia without compromising the profitability of the former. Ultimately, this paper contributes to the sociology of Asian America by demonstrating how small-town ethnic entrepreneurship transcends mere economic activity. It acts as a dynamic arena where Chinese immigrants navigate structural vulnerabilities, reconstruct cultural boundaries, and forge meaningful community connections in the American heartland.

Author

• Qixin Pan, University of Kansas