Fashion as Resistance: Ukrainian Identity from Late Socialism to Wartime

• In Event: Contested Memory and Resistance to Neocolonialism in Ukraine’s Culture II

Abstract

This paper examines the role of fashion as a form of cultural and political resistance in Ukraine, from the late socialist period to Russia’s full-scale invasion and the ongoing war. Under Soviet rule, clothing served as a means of expressing national identity and resisting Russification.Traditional Ukrainian patterns, folk-inspired designs, and local garments became quiet yet powerful assertions of cultural distinctiveness amidst the Soviet regime's efforts to enforce uniformity.Following Ukraine’s independence in 1991, fashion continued to evolve as a tool for reclaiming national heritage, asserting sovereignty, and navigating postcolonial transformation. With Russia’s 2022 full-scale invasion, its role deepened, becoming a symbol of defiance, resilience, and unity. Designers and individuals alike have transformed clothing into a statement of resistance, blending historical references with contemporary styles to reaffirm Ukraine’s cultural and political independence. In this context, fashion is more than just an aesthetic - it is a statement of resistance, a tool of decolonization, and a testament to Ukraine’s enduring struggle for sovereignty.

Author

• Olha Korniienko, Centre for Contemporary History (Germany)