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Session Submission Type: Organized Panel
Across Asia, costume has historically conveyed political and social status, religious affiliation or apotropaic functionality, and adherence or exception to social norms. Such meanings were easily understood within the specific cultural contexts in which costumes were worn, and this panel will strive to recover these significations. We attempt to define the form and significance of adornment and dress to attain a more complete picture of the interconnections between visual, social, political, and religious landscapes. We seek to understand the functions of clothing and accessories and their pictorial representations, performed in political, courtly, and religious settings at particular moments throughout Asia. This panel studies how ideas about costume travelled across time and space. We will specifically examine how costume and adornment were interpreted and reinterpreted in different contexts, how costume from nomadic societies reconfigured in sedentary empires with long traditions of court dress, how functional adornment became status-granting objects, and how the religious significance of textiles was understood in different contexts across Asia. In discussing these issues, this panel looks to reinvigorate debates about the use, production, and circulation of costume and textiles in pre-modern Asia.
Subordinating Fashion: The Semiotics of Courtly Costume under Jahangir - Anna Lise Seastrand, University of Chicago
Golden Geese and Silver Stags: Liao and Jin Hunting Robes - Eiren Shea, University of Pennsylvania
From Page to Plate: Seeing Islamic South Asian Talismanic Shirts as Lamellar Armor - Rose Muravchick, Vassar College
From Utility to Nobility: The Rise of the Steppe-Style Belt in East Asia - Sarah Laursen, Middlebury College