ESHS/HSS Annual Meeting

Spin Doctors: How Wool Science Fashioned a Mid-Century Debate between Tradition and Convenience

• In Event: Domesticating Technologies in the 20th Century

English Abstract

Following a disastrous wool shortage during World War I and the popular debut of nylon in 1939, textile researchers such as those at the University of Leeds began to focus more on synthetic fibres. Nylon, acrylic, and polyester were all derived from petrol-chemicals and introduced a new dialogue to department stores and fashion. Now that the fibre could be designed, which qualities persuaded customers to choose synthetics? Originally, chemists and physicists developed semi- or fully synthetic fibres to mimic natural ones, such as “artificial silk” (rayon), or “artificial wool” (acrylic). This ability to engineer fibre for purpose, rather than as a substitute, became commercially influential. This presentation will explore textile research at the University of Leeds, the Wool Industries Research Association, and the Marks & Spencer Textile Research Laboratory in the early to mid-20th century. Their analyses of wool led scientists to understand its properties and their functions in the textile industry. Additionally, I will present how retailers communicated perceived value for both wool and synthetics. Insights pulled from The Tatler (re-started 1901) and archival documents from Marks & Spencer (founded 1884) reveal distinct class issues in this textile debate as consumers’ expectations changed, emphasizing modernity and utility. I will conclude with a brief address on how this consequential consumer switch to synthetics eventually led to widespread human rights, ecological, and medical disasters. Thankfully, through understanding and (re)applying the wool knowledge gained in the mid-20th century we can employ it against ecological failures of today.

Author

• Monica Stenzel, University of Leeds